Oman: The Sultan's Rule
When I was in Dubai this time, I had the opportunity to do a whirlwind 1.5 day trip to the Sultanate of Oman, an overnight journey by bus. Oman is really ancient. There have been human fossils dated back to over 100,000 years found in the area.
But in recorded history, probably the earliest mention is of Ptolemy, who spoke of a harbor in the gulf region hidden on all sides by mountains.
Today's Oman is Islamic but with one major difference from some of the other Gulf countries. Over 75% of the population are Ibadi, a schism predating the Shia-Sunni division. Religiously, they don’t bother much if you are Christian or Jewish. In fact, there’s even a Shiva Temple out there.
But freedom stops there. In Oman, you can’t express yourself freely, or even assemble together. The only challenge to the reigning dynasty in two centuries of the Islamic Sultanate came from the left. After suppressing the Dhofar rebellion by a group of leftists in 1970, Sultan Qaboos, the new sultan who overthrew his father (“peacefully”) still rules successfully to date.
His photograph has aged decently, but is shown on every currency note, at all shops, malls,government offices, malls, and walls as a mark of deference and nationalistic fervor. It reminded me Mao’s giant portrait hung on the Forbidden City entrance, Dubai’s sheikhs photos, Czar Putin mug shots, or Vietnamese household temple photos of Ho Chi Minh.
Courtesy: Arabian Business. Last public appearance was in February 2017. This photograph reminds me of Amitabh Bachchan.
In fact, any utterance critical of Sultan Qaboos is constitutionally criminal and a poet-producer, Nasser Al-badri was jailed for 12 days and interrogated because he criticized policies. The constitution has of course, been written by the Sultan! Every modern nation needs one, someone must have told him. Media is restrictive, censored, silent, and abused because it has to pay its regards to the Sultan.
Oman has a substantial Indian population. As usual, there are enough Keralites, in search of somewhere to survive and prosper rather than be stuck in God’s own country (communist Kerala). And you have only to turn your head to hear the passing Kannada, Tamil or Telugu speakers.
And of course, Gujarati businessmen were enterprising enough to root themselves there, and one of the largest business houses, is of : Sheikh Kanaksi Khimji Ramdas.
In fact, I found myself thoroughly at ease at all places speaking Urdu. At the hotel where I checked in, in the coffee shops. Even the Omani bus and shared taxi drivers have learnt a smattering of Urdu.
The Portuguese briefly ruled Oman in the 16th century, and there are two forts that mark their passing. The trade routes with India ran through the Gulf of Muscat, which was a very strategic port.
This is the second Portuguese fort. One of Oman’s largest pillars on which the economy rested was its extensive Slave trade, which it unfortunately had to shut down in the 1970’s because it was no longer fashionable. Besides, demand from colonial powers had dried up. It was one of the last Islamic states to declare slavery illegal (Mauritiana declared in 1981, and yet again in 2007).
Royal Opera House of Muscat has hosted several Opera and Ballet performances. It is trying to encourage creation of a culture in Oman.
A beach at Oman
This is the administrative seat of Government, which means the Sultan, and his advisors.
The Sultan Qaboos mosque is the grandest structure in Oman, around 15 kms from the city centre. 300,000 tonnes of Indian sandstone, it has space for 6,500 male worshippers, and also has a separate space for 950 female worshippers.
Inside the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
Inside the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
One major positive change has been the accent on education. From barely three schools in 1970 to a 1000 schools with 650,000 students today, Oman is definitely focusing on increasing literacy, which currently stands at 93.5%
Oman is using its oil reserves to educate itself, and to increase healthcare for its citizens. Even a benevolent monarch can achieve something in 48 years. There is only so much you can spend on aggrandisement and placing your portraits to the left, right, and on top of people.
But in recorded history, probably the earliest mention is of Ptolemy, who spoke of a harbor in the gulf region hidden on all sides by mountains.
But freedom stops there. In Oman, you can’t express yourself freely, or even assemble together. The only challenge to the reigning dynasty in two centuries of the Islamic Sultanate came from the left. After suppressing the Dhofar rebellion by a group of leftists in 1970, Sultan Qaboos, the new sultan who overthrew his father (“peacefully”) still rules successfully to date.
His photograph has aged decently, but is shown on every currency note, at all shops, malls,government offices, malls, and walls as a mark of deference and nationalistic fervor. It reminded me Mao’s giant portrait hung on the Forbidden City entrance, Dubai’s sheikhs photos, Czar Putin mug shots, or Vietnamese household temple photos of Ho Chi Minh.
In fact, any utterance critical of Sultan Qaboos is constitutionally criminal and a poet-producer, Nasser Al-badri was jailed for 12 days and interrogated because he criticized policies. The constitution has of course, been written by the Sultan! Every modern nation needs one, someone must have told him. Media is restrictive, censored, silent, and abused because it has to pay its regards to the Sultan.
And of course, Gujarati businessmen were enterprising enough to root themselves there, and one of the largest business houses, is of : Sheikh Kanaksi Khimji Ramdas.
This is the second Portuguese fort. One of Oman’s largest pillars on which the economy rested was its extensive Slave trade, which it unfortunately had to shut down in the 1970’s because it was no longer fashionable. Besides, demand from colonial powers had dried up. It was one of the last Islamic states to declare slavery illegal (Mauritiana declared in 1981, and yet again in 2007).
Royal Opera House of Muscat has hosted several Opera and Ballet performances. It is trying to encourage creation of a culture in Oman.
Sultan Qaboos palace.
One major positive change has been the accent on education. From barely three schools in 1970 to a 1000 schools with 650,000 students today, Oman is definitely focusing on increasing literacy, which currently stands at 93.5%
Oman is using its oil reserves to educate itself, and to increase healthcare for its citizens. Even a benevolent monarch can achieve something in 48 years. There is only so much you can spend on aggrandisement and placing your portraits to the left, right, and on top of people.
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