To visit a East European country, part of the Iron Curtain countries, was always a dream. The Czech Republic was close to Austria and Germany, and I had the opportunity to visit Prague for two days.
There is a phenomenon called Post Communism. Each of the countries earlier under communism, still suffers from different symptoms to varying degrees. Corruption, Cronyism, Culture shock are the three major symptoms.
A view of Prague: Ancient and Modern at the same time.
When I see China, Russia, Vietnam, and now Czechia, the tale is all too familiar. A confusion of regulated market economics with prosperity, extreme corruption, control of the government by oligarchs, denouncing every older generation communist as a criminal, all are characteristics of post communism.
The one symptom that Czechia doesn't show is the rise of a Resurgent Religious Right wing which is surprising since it was the seat of the Holy Roman Empire in the 14th century. Today's Czech citizen is largely irreligious (35% No Religion and 45% No Answer), which explains why there is no religious right.
This is Prague Castle, the largest in the world as per Guiness Book of Records. During the communist era, it served as the seat of government. It now is the seat of the Head of State of the Czech Republic.
Prague has its own tale to tell, of a Velvet Revolution against Communism led by actors and students in 1989. It was called the Velvet Revolution because of its soft, non-violent nature, forcing the Communist regime to step down after 4 decades of dictatorial one party rule. Vaclav Havel who led the protests of over 800,000 people became the President.
Today, Prague is perhaps the only city to have a Museum of Communism, to honor the 200,000 Czechs arrested and hundreds shot dead trying to escape from the Iron Curtain.
This was my first view after exiting the train station at Prague. I had seen two bins before. Even three. But here were four bins for recycling rubbish. Tetrapak, Glass, Plastic, and Paper waste.
They also looked so clean that if an Indian were spitting red betel juice, he would carefully spit it on the road, without leaving any stains.
If they were in India, they would most probably get stolen and used for storing lassi or some equally useful jugad that one could think of.
In the background is an enormous street painting, that was conceptually beyond me. The colors and shapes seemed to have some boundaries, and the artist obviously had thought it through very carefully.
Tyco Brahe and Johannes Kepler. Both these great scientists were employed by the Czech king Rudolph II.
Kepler discovered the laws of planetary motion based on data stolen from Tyco Brahe after his death.
Newton's law of universal gravity was based on Kepler's discovery.
Kozel beer. A dark, reddish brown beer with a flavor of burnt sugar and caramel. The bubbles provide a sharp rejoinder to your tongue. And maybe a hint of coffee and chocolate.
Dark beer comes with a story of how a raging fire was put out at a barn and they had to decide what to do with the burnt barley. The fable is fantastic enough to perhaps be true. Kozel (brand) beer itself is around 140 years old.
Inside Prague Castle
To see a line of cars like this is relative wealth in Czechia today that people tend to overlook. The waiting period for Skoda cars was 15 years in the Communist regime. That seems to be echoing Indian socialist waiting times of a few years for an Ambassador or Fiat!
This couple clearly caught my attention, wrapped in each other.
A view from Charles bridge in Prague
Another view from Charles Bridge in Prague
Painters and photographers set up their wares for display on the bridges of Prague. I liked young Batman who seemed to be holding back wanting to stay on the bridge.
A painter selling on Charles bridge. Most of these paintings are copies of each other and not particularly creative ones in the first place. I liked the classical Grecian S-curve of the woman's body observing the paintings and decided to make her the focus.
St. Nicholas Church near Old Town Square
Estates theatre in Prague. Mozart performed 'Figaro' here.
The sausages were excellent and so were the people making them. I struck up a small conversation with them to find out what hours they worked, how they lived. They seemed to be just a little behind with the other countries in Europe, which was amazing considering they gained freedom from communism only 30 years ago.
Czechia today has risen up again. The average PPP (Purchasing Power Parity) per capita income has risen from a bare $11,780 dollars in 1989 to around $35,000 in 2017, an increase of three times a better life.
A night photograph of Prague
"I do not envy Paradise to God because I am really satisfied to live in Sicily" - a quote from a park bench in Prague. I guess this is the way of first generation Hyderabadis, New Yorkers, Mumbaikars, Londoners...most of us eager to show off our cities, and most comfortable living in them.
My fellow passenger in the train to Cesky Krumlov had an interesting face, with eyes that changed color with the sunlight. With the rising sun streaming through the window lighting up her golden hair, I managed to catch the difference in shade between her eyes!
Cesky Krumlov
Cesky Krumlov 2
A shop selling knicknacks of no utilitarian value to the earlier Communist state. Many premium goods could only be bought at special stores with forex. Black markets were created stealing goods from the public sector. "If you are not stealing from the State, you are robbing your own family," - Old Czech saying.
Guesthouse U Pavla, a hotel in Cesky Krumlov
Cesky Krumlov 3
Throughout my stay in Prague and in Cesky Krumlov, I met these Korean groups, with their own Korean guide rattling away loudly. In some cases like this one, the tourist groups also had earphones and the guide, a mike so they could hear his loud voice reverberate, while they took selfies or photos with their mobile. Why the profusion of Koreans of all people? Maybe it was holiday season out there.
Notice the person abandoning his precious DSLR and opting to shoot with his mobile. Obviously the kit lens was not wide enough to capture the shot, and changing lenses on a DSLR can be painfully time taking while traveling and listening to a tour guide. A good camera is that which gets used often, not a dead weight in your hand.
Inside St.Vitus Church in Cesky Krumlov
I liked this restaurant's decor outside.
In earlier years, production quotas, ever-increasing targets, central planning, five year plans would have resulted in either hundreds of bottles of Becherovka liquor lying unsold on shelves or a paucity of supply. One of the advantages of forcibly privatizing all state owned enterprises, and moving from a producer goods to a consumer goods driven economy, is that we have excellent liquor always present to meet market demand.
But one can't legislate or force freedom. The cost of such a move was the ruination of the entire industries like the textile industry barring a few exceptions.
A musician playing on the bridge at Cesky Krumlov
A functioning smithy in Cesky Krumlov.
This was the Eggenberg beer, now bought and renamed Cesky Krumlov. It is famous enough in the region and they also offer a beer tour.
Grilled Pork knuckle marinated in beer, served with horseradish, mustard sauce and a hot pepper with bread on the side.
This is Prague Castle, the largest in the world as per Guiness Book of Records. During the communist era, it served as the seat of government. It now is the seat of the Head of State of the Czech Republic.
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