Eight Days in Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan from April 26 to May 3, 2025
I choose these three countries for my 8 day trip since they were to each other and air travel was cheap. Georgia, Azerbaijan and Armenia were all strategic because they were on the Silk Roads connecting civilizations between East and the West. It was not just trade and business (silk, tea, spices, porcelain, precious stones from the East and horses, wool, gold, silver, glass, wine from the West). The Caravan Serais also meant spread of world religions and cultures, and a flow of philosophy and science.
This trip was also a deep appreciation of another world religion, Zorastrianism, across all these three countries, well before Christianity or Islam had touched them.
And of the devastating effects of the Soviet annexation and repression across most of the 20th century on these three states.
My first destination was Tbilisi, Georgia. I caught Air Arabia to Sharjah, and from there caught the flight to Tbilisi
Tbilisi (a warm place) was full of hot springs and so the city grew. It offered a ready place for Caravan Serai along the Silk Road to rest and have a bath.
City Guli, where I booked a bed, was cozy, though the entrance was dingy. It had a warm feel, a dining area where one could have food, and a reception with no one manning it! Irakali ("Ika"), the sole host took care of everything, and even shared his Cognac and coffee with me!
Through Georgia, Azerbaijan and Armenia, I found this recurring theme of Soviet oppression and exploitation of resources, of repression of religion till 1991 when all three soviet states broke away.
Russian influence is still palpable as well as anti-Russiab sentiment.
Everyone and their uncle are called some version of George in Georgia! Even my walking tour guide was named Yorgi. Yorgi could speak Russian, Georgian and English.
A lot of street vendors were selling plants or even flowers.
Random sculpture
A trombone player jumped out of the concrete wall
The pavements on Shota Rostavelli avenue were broad enough to have a line of trees in the middle.
The Georgian Parliament was impressive and a site for a handful of local protestors
A city must have space for its aged and trees on pavements to shade its vendors. This vendor was selling a collection of rings and trinkets.
And a pavement must have space for the city's residents to sit and relax with a friend.
Linerty Square, a symbol of Georgian struggle for independence. Earlier variously called the Beria square and Lenin square in soviet times,
A man sitting outside a souvenir shop on Vertskhli street smoking a cigarette.
Street Art is quite common in Tbilisi
A random sculpture while walking. The woman has tree branches for hands, and an umbrella on top. I wonder what the symbolism is...
Leaning Clock Tower in Tbilisi (2010). Every hour, a gilded angel comes out to ring the hour!
State Palace of ceremonies, formerly presidential palace, Tbilisi
Miniature clock. This whole contraption was less than a centimeter in diameter, and actually worked!
The clock tower has various figures and scales. Can you spot a miniature clock towards the right in the yellow hole?
A painter outside Ankhiskati Basilica
Staweberries in glasses
Mother Georgia with wine in one hand and a sword in the other! Mothers were depicted as heroic according to the guide since they stayed defending their homes while the men went off to battle elsewhere.
Bridge of Peace
Zion Cathedral of Tbilisi
History Museum of Tbilisi
Statue of Georgian Man drinking wine from a drinking horn. "There are no alcoholics in Georgia. We just love to drink wine - 2 to 3 bottles each at every party," said the guide!
"Alcohol may be man's worst enemy. But the Bible says love your enemy" - Frank Sinatra quoted on Wine Shop No.1
Narikala Fortress closed for renovation.
Sulphur Bath Houses of Tbilisi.
The entrance to the 120 year Funicular Cable Car
Tbilisi Funicular that takes us up to Rustaveli Mtatsminda
At the top of Rustaveli Mtatsminda Park
View of Tbilisi City at sunset from Mtatsminda
April 27, 2025 was a whirlwind 15-hour tour of Armenia.
Armenia had an ancient history and Yerevan, its capital, is one of the oldest continuously populated cities since the 8th century BCE.
About 3 million Armenians live in Armenia. About 10 million Armenians are disapora across Russia, France, Iran, the United States, Georgia and other countries!
Armenia was the first country to officially adopt Christianity in 301 CE. It came at a heavy cost because the dominant religion there was Zorastianism before that.
Close to 1.5 million Armenians were killed in the Armenian Genocide carried out by the Ottoman Empire around 1915 CE. This is one of the largest genocides ever before the Nazi Holocaust of 6 million Jews.
Haghpat Monastery built from 10th to 13th Century CE.
Armenian nobility was buried in graves around the monastery.
Notice the symbol of Fire around the Christian Cross. Zorastrianism was the religion of the Holy Fire which was the vehicle between the human and divine. The remanants of the symbol are there in crosses across Armenia.
Inside the Haghpat monastery.
Haghepat Monastery
Caucasus mountains around the Haghepat monastery
Haghepat Monastery
At Dilijan Peace Square. The “Mimino” is a classic of Soviet cinema, and this monument celebrates it. I have taken the liberty of standing with the statues of the 3 actors!
Lake at Dilijan Peace Square
Sevan Lake
View of Sevan Lake from Sevan Monastery, founded in 874 CE by Princess Mariam
The Sevan Monastery was a very large complex and overlooked the Sevan peninsula
View from Yeravan City Panorama viewpoint
Memorial of the 50th Anniversary of the October Revolution - a very deserted forlorn place really. At some point during Soviet occupation, it would have been a highlight.
Divers' statues at Victory Park
Another view of Divers' statues at Victory Park
At the open air museum at Victory Park
Getting down the covered escalator at Victory Park
At the Cascade complex and open air Art Musuem near Isahakyan Street
Alexandar Tamanian statue. He was a famous Russian-born Armenian architect whose works are famous in Yeravan.
Armenian National Opera and Ballet Theatre.
Northern Avenue, a famous pedestrian shopping street in Yeravan
Every city I went to had these mopeds that could be rented out and dropped off at the other end.
Yeravan is known as the pink city on account of the pink buildings. Soviet architecture was mostly drab in color, wth the buildings utilitarian. They used the local stone mostly, that had pink shades.
Street Artist
This giant guitar was a balloon, with a guitar audio blaring from tiny electronics inside!
Street Singer
Street Bookshop Owner
Republic Square, Yerevan, Armenia
A wedding couple at Republic Square, Yerevan.
A second wedding couple at Republic Square, Yerevan!
A view of Republic Square, Yerevan
A rainbow in the middle of the setting sun in fields amidst dark clouds!
On April 28, I went to the Kakheti region mainly for wine tasting. We stopped for breakfast at a home which brewed wine, and made great bread. This is the Tandoor where the bread is being baked
The bread with three types of cheese - cottage, salted and goat cheese.
St. Nino Monastery
The fortifications were built by the king to guard against marauding Dagestani tribes
Walking on the fortified walls.
The walls were quite high and all around the village.
At Kusika restaurant for lunch.
Three flavors of Chacha in bottles. Chacha is a strong alocoholic drink distilled after fermenting grape skins, seeds and mush leftover after the juice has been exracted for wine. About 30-50% alcohol with lemon, oak and tarrgagon (some sort of herb) in the three bottles.
The chicken with a mild garlic sauce was exceptional. The salad with some flowers was okay.
Qutab - bread with cheese - was awesome and filling
At Kindzmarauli Winery, an old winery operating since 1533 CE.
Modern steel vats for wine production.
Wine barrels
Wine Tasting at Kindmarauli Windery in Kakheti region
Kindzmarauli Winery
Kindzmarauli Winery
April 29 was a tour of the Kazbegi, Ananuri and Guduari regions. This is a panoramic view of Zhinvali Reservoir.
Honey tasting at a local shop
Gergeti Trinity Church
Stepantsminda viewpoint
Georgia - Russia Friendship Monument. This monument was constructed way out in the Kakheti region just beside the Georgian Military Highway and built after the Russian invasion of the Kakheti region making it a Russian protectorate - so much for friendship!!!
Ananuri Fortress Complex built by the Aragvi, a 13th century dynasty that ruled for several centuries in the region of the Dusheti municipality.
Ananuri Fortress Complex
The Soviets had put a heavy layer of whitewash/plaster on top of all the religious frescos. When Georgia finally became independent, the whitewash had to be painfully and carefully scraped off to reveal the frescos below.
April 30 was reserved for visiting the History Museum, Art Museum, Ethnography Museum and going around Tbilisi.
Tbilisi had Hominids ever since 2.6 million years ago, far before the evolution of Homo Sapiens (modern humans). The skull belongs to Australopithecus Africanus.
Notice the Khantsi (drinking horns) at the bottom, made of gold, silver, enamel and horn each capable of storing 2 liters! Georgians drank enormous amounts of wines even in ancient times.
An actual wooden Railway Carriage shot full of bullet holes during the Russian invasion by the Red Army in 1921. This happened shortly after Soviet Russia recognized Georgia's independence in 1920.
Burial Chariot - 2nd Millenium BCE. The owners of these chariots were taken to the next world in them!
Some of these metal objects are older than the second millenium BCE. Truly a civilization comparable to Ancient Egypt!
A column capital consisting of two cow heads oddly similar to Nandi in India.
Clay Vessel (Khramis Didi Gora) from 6th Millenium BCE decorated with grapes. Older than Egpyt, Babylon, Indus Valley..comparable to the Chinese civilization
Art Palace and Museum was shut down by the Soviets and was a dingy building till its restoration after Georgia regained independence.
Designed by Paul Stern for Prince Oldenberg who had it commissioned for his wife Agraphina. The entire collection was however safe in the building post soviet rule.
Art Palace Tbilisi
View of Tbilisi from near Giorgi Chitaia Open Air Museum of Ethnography
Darbazi house from Teliani village in the Ethnography open air museum
View of Tbilisi from Kus Tba street
At the Georgian Museum of Fine Arts. A huge wall size painting by Apolon Kutateladze, painter of the people of Georgia (1970) and Soviet Union (1970)
Another painting by Apolon Kutateladze
Bridge of Voronstov
Nude Model
Top: Bather
Bottom: Woman and the Sea
Woman in front of the mirror
Naked Julie
Woman with a bicycle
Nude
Girl with a Walking Stick
An Amazon
Dancer
Dream
Snowfall
Georgian Museum of Fine Arts
Shota Rustaveli International Airport
Departing from Tblisi Airport at 2:40 am on May 1, 2025
May 1, Azerbaijan, Baku City: Monument to Mirza Alakbar Sabir. Sabir was one of the greatest poets of Azerbaijan and a great satirist, writing for the working classes.
His statue had to be in a sitting position because only Lenin, Stalin and similar others could have standing statues.
Azerbaijan literally means the Holy Land of Fire, from Avestan Persian. Fire is holy in Zorastrianism. The entire land had areas where fire would burn for centuries (more on that later).
Again, Azerbaijan was originally on the Silk Road, providing shelter and a safe place to stay for the traders.
These are the double gates of the Old City of Baku, built in the 12th century by Shirvanshah.
The public bath houses of Baku provided a shelter to caravan serai, a hot bath after the long and dusty road through the desert.
All these old European style mansions were made by rich oil barons!
In 1846, oil was discovered in large quantities in Azerbaijan. The Chinese had been using gasoline for fire since centuries, but this discovery was coinciding with the first gasoline motor. Azerbaijan became rich overnight, and Alfred Nobel, the Rotschilds, and of course, the Russians all jumped into the fray.
Cats looking down at the streets from a mansion in Old City, Baku
Statue of a trader selling wares
Statue of a woman selling fruit.
The Maidan Tower features on currency notes. It dates back to the 12th century when the Old city of Baku was founded.
There are 7 steps at the top that indicate that it was originally a Zorastrian Fire Temple with 7 steps to heaven. Some date it to the 8th century.
There is a legend of a Fire-colored hair Virgin Girl who came to aid Baku from Ahura Mazda against enemies. This was after the Magi prayed to the Holy Fire kept in the fire temple.
Cafe Guisto. Notice the architect made spaces on the entire left wall for pigeons to roost. This was just so that the pigeons didn't use the Old City limestone buildings to drop their acidic feces! Pigeon shit is still a big hazard for conservation of old buildings.
Model of Old City, Baku
Masjid in Old City, Baku
The streets of the Old City are very narrow (3 to 5 feet), and there is no space for cars to move between the buildings. Real estate is 3-5 times more expensive where car access is present like the street above.
Public Bath House in Old City, Baku. There is space for bathers to sit and enjoy a cup of tea and then walk into the bathhouse at the back.
Entrance to the bath house in Old City, Baku
Bust of Aliaga Vahid, one of the prominent satyric poets of the 20th century in Azerbaijan. His bust has several scenes from his life that must have been inside his mind.
Way out in Old City of Baku is a small room filled with thousands of miniature books that are centuries old! Shakespeare, Robert Browning, Charles Lamb...it warmed my heart to see them all again in this internet age!
Shirvanshir palace
Shirvanshir palace
Mouk's Immersive Studio. The doors and windows blended into the sculpture and the green vines.
Ismailiya Palace
Xezer (pronounced Khezer) restaurant that also offers excellent draught beer on tap.
The waiting line outside Xezer pointed to its popularity.
Mammadin Rasulzadeh street - a pedestrian only street
Street Singer, Mammadin Rasulzadeh Street, Baku
7,000 to 6,000 years ago - Archealogical dig from Ismaelbeytebe settlement
4,000 years ago - Leyatepe Settlement pottery work
Tar, Kamancha and Daf are the national instruments of Azarbaijan also present on 1 Manat currency note.
Azerbaijan's famous export to the Silk Road traders were its exquisite handwoven carpets
How Azerbaijan was occupied by the Soviets in the 1920's, and independence completely abolished in 1922.
Baku Skyline from Haider Aliyev Center
Haider Aliyev Center. He was a general under USSR, and later became the President of Azerbaijan. The guide was telling me that Azerbaijan is now a family business of the Aliyev's, with the current president being the son of Haider Aliyev. His daughter-in-law and daughter reportedly own most of the shopping malls and buildings and the dynastic corruption is extensive.
From Lagos to Lemmon - cowboy sculpture by Dotun poppula
Alake The Tech Babe - sculpture by Dotun Poppula
Feeling free like a bird - sculpture
The Mystery of the Rose Exhibition by Andrei Ostasov. "A rose is a flower that protects itself, but inside it is a delicate creature”
Parallel Universes
The Recycler - by Dafidi
Eve. In this age of AI, maybe we should have an Eve and Adam of AI - Eliza (1966) and Parry (1972) possibly? Refer to Douglas Hofstadter's Godel, Escher and Bach for a conversation between the Adam and Eve of AI!
Azerbaijani Carpets with exquitely done people and animals - definitely not Wahabi!
There was an entire exhibition of Andrey Ostashov and I found his sculptures fascinating!
"Specializing in bronze and stone sculpture, Ostashov is known for his mastery of form, line, and volume."
"He frequently travels, particularly to Asian countries, to gather inspiration for his art"
The Boy Sitting Under the Bodhi Tree - a reference to the Buddha meditating.
This ninja princess was clearly Asian inspired!
This reminded me of the alien singing in The Fifth Element
His works emphasize beauty and aesthetics, drawing inspiration from Far Eastern applied art, samurai imagery, fairy-tale princesses, and shamans.
Equilibrist in one arm
Saluki Dog
Funicular Rail up to Upland Park
Going to Upland Park via the funicular.
These are a fraction of the 30,000 martyrs who were fighting for Azerbaijani independence and were brutally massacred by the Soviet Army in a protest. The wall continues for a distance of half a kilometer.
View of Baku at night from Upland Park
Flame Towers of Baku
A reminder that Marlon Brando's Don Corleone exerts influence even in Azerbaijan. He made me an offer I could not refuse in Don Pizza restaurant and the food was excellent!
Driving in four wheeler up to the Mud Volcanoes
Some of these are underground and submarine.
Mud volcanoes are associated with oilfields.
Azerbaijan has the most mud volcanoes of any country
Our Tour Guide and Tour Bus
The ticket office for Gobustan
A Gavaldash - I played on this musical instrument with the two stones kept on top. The limestone mixed with the stone made it hollow at places and different pitched drum beats could be made with a hard stone.
The 6,000 rock carvings of Gobustan have been dated back between 6,000-40,000 years ago.
Dancing around. We can see a couple holding hands.
20 petroglyphs, with a boat included. 14 men and deer are also included. 10th Millenium BCE.
Deer, Hunters
Ana Zagha shelter, 14-16th millenium BCE. The bulls at the entrance of the shelter were followed by hunters and an Auroch.
To think that 14-18,000 years ago, people were clambering up these rocks trying to carve art in these mountains...
The guide spoke with ringing authority, "This was the stone where they sacrificed people, and their heads fell down the cliff!" He must have been communing with the spirits of the shamans..
I wondered how clever the guides were to make up such tales from scant archaelogical evidence!!!
Ovchular Hunter's Shelter with scenes of domesticating horses, and hunts
A beautifully captured dog flying in the air behind its prey, a Wild Boar! Humanity had its share of great artists even 40,000 years ago!
If you observe closely and let your mind wander you may see a camel (an animal with a hump on its back).
The Bolsheviks razed the original 13th century mosque built by Shirvanshah in 1934. The entire Bibi-Heybat mosque was rebuilt at the same site in the 1990's.
The Bibi-Heybat Mosque from inside. Stained Glass windows decorate the mosque and it is as beautiful inside out as it is to see outside in.
The Bibi-Heybat Mosque
Azerbaijan is 95% Muslim (of which less than 15% are Sunni). But there are hardly about 10% practising Muslims. There was no hijab or veil anywhere in sight. One large section in every grocery store was dedicated to beer, whisky, vodka and gin and it was priced reasonably.
70 years of Soviet rule (3 generations) had turned the population secular.
Food is available at reasonable prices, especially if you are willing to settle for Shawarma and soup!
I settled for chicken soup...
..,and Shawarma! This is a different way of serving shawarma in a burger bun pressed in a grill.
Yanardag (the burning mountain. You can see the fires burning at the back of people.
During WWII, the Soviets had to order the dousing of the fire, so that German planes could not use the fire to navigate or drop bombs.
I, at Yanardag, feeding my hand to the Holy Fire!
Inside Aleshgah Fire Temple. At some point, some leading Muslims (esp. in Iran) made peace with Zorastrianism, and Zorastrians were recognized as Ahl-e-Kitab (people of The Book) since the Zend Avesta had been revealed to them.
Hindus - this is the way some people in Azerbaijan think of Hindus who came there!
So there were Sikhs, Zorastrians, Hindus all congregating in one temple complex, making a pot-pourri of religions, cultures, traditions and customs.
A carpet depicting the Zorastrians
Ganesha set in one of the rooms.
Zorastrian Fire Temple with the Eternal Fire now fed by underground gas pipes.
I love the entire world! And also Baku. In the backdrop you can see the Haider Aliyev Center.
Chicken soup for the soul
Beef Dolma. Juicy minced cooked beef stuffed in grapevine leaves. Another Azerbaiajani specialty. It was very juiicy, tangy, and the vines added a special flavor to the beef.
Diri Baba Mausoleum, made in the 15th century
Diri Baba was a sufi mystic, and legends abound about him.
Diri Baba may have lived in these caves.
In the walls of the caves are carved nooks and crannies where oil lamps were burnt.
The mountains and valleys of Gobustan near Diri Baba Mausoleum
Near Shamakhi bus station, these sculptures remind me of the dancing devirishes of Turkey.
The 7 Beauties Waterfalls - they are seven tiny cascades, not worth the drive of 3+ hours to see them!
Azerbaijani Pilav with chicken kebab.
Nohur Gol, a Turkish restaurant, was by the edge of Nohur lake.
Nohur Gol Restaurant set against the backdrop of mountains.
Going up the Cable Car to Tufandag Mountain Resort
Quaint little red topped homes below the Tufandag Resort at Durja
I could not resist taking a pic of myself with the mountains and snows in the background
Panoramic view of Tufandag mountain resort
A view of the clouds at Tufandag
Wilderness with the mountains bursting through clouds at Tufandag Mountain Resort
Bakhtiyar was a 35-year old lawyer spending 3 months in Baku doing a short term language course so he could gain Temporary Resident status. Then from there, he would apply to a European Embassy for a Visa to go to Europe for his Masters in Law.
He played excellent Yaman-Kalyaan on his guitar. And did some brilliant pencil sketches too, as well as imitated the accents of Americans, Brits, Indians, Pakistanis, etc. In honor of Bakhtiyar, I present just this photo of Kvas since he was averse to being captured digitally!
Chabiant Rose Dry Wine at Baku Aiprort Lounge
Bila-Haut white wine at Baku Airport Lounge
Comments
Post a Comment