Siberia: Irkustk and my Circum-Baikal trek, the most picturesque part of the Trans-Siberian Railway

The Trans-siberian Railway is the world's third longest railway, with a length of 9,289 kms and still growing. The longest (Moscow-Pyongang) and second longest (Kiev-Vladivostok) follow the Trans-Siberian route. Stretching from St. Petersburg close to Finland to Vladivostok, north of Japan, it is a stupendous journey by train that takes 8 days to complete non-stop, and crosses eight time zones! 

 Built in Tsarist times, this was a stupendous effort passing through mountains, across barren lands of Siberia, branches of it passing by Mongolia and going right up to Korea and China.

 That said, I just could not afford to spend 8 days non-stop in the Trans-Siberian! Instead, I chose a fast (6 hour) flight to Irkutsk from where I trekked along the old Trans-Siberian Railway tunnels.
Rolling Stones hostel where I stayed in Irkutsk for INR 750 a night.

“To see the world, things dangerous to come to, to see behind walls, draw closer, to find each other, and to feel. That is the purpose of life.” - A quote from The Secret Life of Walter Mitty at Rolling Stones Hostel, Irkutsk.


This was a beautiful statue of a school teacher with her children. The sunlight in the background created a halo around the school teacher, which made the statue come to life.

V I Lenin, looking lonely at Irkustk, pointing in vain in one direction, with passersby headed in the other. I took his photograph as a memoir of Iron Curtain Russia.

 Russian Theater Posters
Emblem of Irkustsk

   Pedestrian Street near Ulitsa Sedova, Irkutsk.

A pedestrian street near Ulitsa Sedova, with a hawker selling virtual reality!
Women sitting outside 'Irish Pub' having beer. Near Ulitsa Sedova, Irkutsk.

A street crooner singing outside a restaurant

And a Fidel Castro Cafe! Memories of the Bad Old Times (Cuban Missile Crisis)

Food Stalls

At Rassolnik Restaurant: Beef Stroganoff with Buckwheat and Fragrant Pine Nuts Nastoika 


Rassolnik! A traditional Siberian broth made from vegetables and barley, cucumber soaked in brine, smoked chicken breast, tomatoes and potatoes. Served with a dash of sour cream and parsley. I had a shot of Finlandia vodka on the side.


Hostel Bravo was the best place I stayed at in Russia across cities, at INR 500 for the night. It was just a stone's throw away from Irkutsk Airport, with unmatched decor, excellent bunk beds, bathrooms, washing machine, and kitchen. Notice the old piano put to very good use, and the overall theme of music.
This was a really cool bar called "Winkel" in Irkutstk, with a bartender who was trying to be an entrepreneur on the side. Peter was trying to export making excellent home-made bitter chocolate and gave me some to try. He also made me one wild cocktail!
The waitress had a wonderful smile, and wasn't camera shy
The Bartender's Special! A heady mix of rum, vodka, coke, wine - and I don't know what else!

Baikal Vodka! An ice-cold frosted glass, 50 ml vodka shots, with a dash of lime at the top! Traditionally drunk neat, and made of fermented cereal grains (or potatoes). 

I caught a train from Irkutsk to Tyomnaya Pad in the morning for my Circum-Baikal trek. The women conductors were busy, efficient, and very business-like!
  

This dog was there for the entire 3 hour journey, traveling solo, and he seemed to know which passengers to beg food from. The poor lady landed up giving away half her packed lunch! The dog's tail just wouldn't STAY STILL!


The Trans-Siberian Railway takes almost a day to go around Lake Baikal from Irkutsk to Ulan Ude 




Boat on the shores of Lake Baikal




























My young friend Tsy Ari who became my translator and guide for the day. 





















Indian, Buryat, we didn't know each other's language at all, but managed to converse in English








A Baikal Seal




 Elena was another girl in the same group. She seemed to teeter on balance!
At Kultuk
The Village of Kultuk, from where we caught the train back (Zemlyanichnyy - Irkutsk).


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